Completely Floored

Today we’re back to sun room updates.  When last we left off we were here.Image

With the concrete removed, we were ready to add the floor joists to that empty area and then put down the sub floor.  This meant first adding a band of 2×6 around the walls.Image

To do this, Mark used these sleeve anchors.  That are made specifically for brick and concrete.

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These guys act similar to drywall anchors in that when they are driven into the wall they spring out and latch into the brick.Image

Once the band was installed, it was time to add the floor joists.  These guys get screwed into the 2×6’s to hold the joists.Image

I wasn’t around for the next step, so there are no photos, but the floor joist gets set down inside these brackets and screwed in.  This next picture is more of Mark cutting the sub floor, but you can see the new floor joists in the background.Image

So now that the floor joists run the length of the room, it was finally time to lay sub floor.  I was up the street canning with Natalie and Julia on Saturday when this was going down (pun intended), so I left the camera with Mark and his brother.  They weren’t the best at taking pictures, so I only have a few, but they report that it went down without a hitch and it seems as though they are telling the truth because it feels super firm and supportive underfoot.

To install the sub floor the boys first measured the room.  The part where the kitchen used to be was about an inch wider than the rest of it because it didn’t have the bead board around the bottom like the rest of the room did.

The sub floor boards are 48″ wide. So they measured in 48″ from the exterior wall where the kitchen used to be and made a mark on the floor joist.  Then they measured 47″ from the exterior wall where the bead board is to account for the 1″ reduction in width.   Then they ran a chalk line across to create a straight line to work off of.  It’s important to work off of a measured straight line and not a wall or a corner because those are not always plum. Here’s diagram to show what they did.

Diagram

They started on the opposite side of the room from the former kitchen along the exterior wall.  They cut off 1″ from these sub floor boards to account for the bead board along this section of the wall. 

To install the boards, they put sub floor glue on each floor joist and then carefully laid each board in place before screwing it down with sub floor screws in each corner and a few in the middle, about 10 screws per board. Once the first row was installed, they marked on the sub floor where the floor joists were so that they can screw the second row of board into them.

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For the second row of board, they cut the first board in half length-wise so that the seams would be offset from the first row.  They didn’t need to measure again because they knew that they first row is plum, so the just locked in the next set of boards.  For the third row, they kept board’s length in tact to match the first row, but had to cut the width down to only about 2′ since that’s all the width left in the room.  They also had to cut in around the steps into the house.  Here’s how it looked after it had all been laid.

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Since Mark had marked on the sub floor board where the floor joists were beneath it, he was able to go back once it was all laid and add one additional screw every one foot of floor joist to give the floor further reinforcement.  This added about 45 screws to every sheet of sub floor.  Reinforcement indeed.

So that’s the deal on the sub floor.  We can’t wait to sand and paint it, but before we do that, we’re going to install the windows.  As you can see in the picture above, we’ve already started, and having those old jalousie windows out of there is amazing.

I will be back later this week with a whole post about installing the windows and the doors. You guys, it’s starting to come together!

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